Before we start, let’s first clear the air of the “digital vs film” debate. I understand that by suggesting an old Olympus film camera could even compare to a modern digital camera is, well, risky. I might just get myself skewered on the vintage stakes of film purists.
But hear me out.
The 35EC and GRiiiX are both super compact cameras built for spontaneous photography. They each have 2.8 prime lenses that land in that sweet 40mm(ish) focal range, and both cameras are meant to be carried everywhere.
Realizing the similarities between these two cameras was kind of accidental, but my wallet is definitely better off for it. Let me explain.
Recently, I found myself stuck in another cycle of photographic novelty- aka lusting for a new camera. A GRiiix to be specific. Trying to be a bit better with frivolous purchases I decided to dig through my box of rarely used cameras hoping to quench that insatiable thirst.
Maybe you can relate?
So, in an effort to play with the toys I already have, I started shooting my Olympus 35EC again after a few year hiatus.
And that, my friends, is where today’s story of the Olympus 35EC begins.
I Realized The 35EC is a Sleeper
After only a few shots in my first roll, I completely forgot about the GRiiix. The 35EC’s ergonomics are nearly perfect. Every dial, switch, and button is easily accessible with one-handed operation. The film advance wheel is unobtrusive and insanely well-placed (at least for my medium-sized hands). Plus, the front lock allows it to be carried in a jacket pocket without fear of taking underexposed pictures of pocket lint.
The super sharp 2.8 Zuiko lens relies on a zone (manual) focusing system that gives you four distance options from 3′ to infinity. The focus ring has definitive clicks at each position, and has nicely machined knurled ribs.
And… it has all the sounds you’d expect from a vintage camera- from tactile clock-like winds, to delicate shutter clicks.
However, all the neat sounds and comfortable handling in the world don’t mean a thing if it takes crappy pictures. I’m happy to report that the lens on this Olympus is extremely sharp. As in, near ginsu level. At least in the center.
Like many lenses, wide open it will deliver corners that are a bit softer, along with a very slight vignette. This is a welcomed “defect” for me though, and it only accentuates the images giving them more character.
Everything on this camera is electronically controlled, including the aperture, so it’s best to think of the 35EC as a point and shoot that you have to manually focus.
I found the images from the 35EC to have a medium level of contrast and relatively low distortion. The lens does have a coating, but at certain angles (when backlit) I did experience some flare and ghosting. We’ll just say that… this is more vintage charm.
A Few Specs
Released: 1969
Lens: E. Zuiko 42mm f/2.8, 5 elements in 4 groups
Focus: Zone focus, Clicks at 1m, 1.5m, 3m, infinity
Shutter Speeds: 4 sec to 1/800 sec
Exposure: Fully automatic, CdS Metering
ISO Range: 25-800
Nothing’s Perfect
After developing the first few rolls, I noticed there was a darker portion on the right side edge. It appeared on images that were shot at faster speeds, so I assumed there may be a slight shutter lag, possibly from weak batteries.
I replaced the batteries (which were a few years old), but unfortunately, it hasn’t resolved the issue. Other possibilities may be a sticky shutter blade or even shutter bounce. Sounds like it’s time for a CLR.
Until then, I’ll have to raise the exposure on my images about 2/3 stop in Lightroom with a graduated filter.
The Battery Hack
Originally powering this Olympus were two PX640 mercury batteries (which are no longer available). The workaround is stacking two SR44 batteries in one of the two cavities, and insert a ball of tin foil into the second cavity. Works perfectly!
There is a small difference in total voltage when using SR44’s versus PX625’s, but in practice I’ve never had an issue. Many films actually prefer a bit of overexposure anyway, so no harm there.
It Does Everything For You, Almost
With an obvious point-and-shoot-ability to it, the 35EC electronically handles all the metering for you. It’s internal CdS meter measures the scene via a window beside the lens with a selectable ISO range of 25-800. Keep in mind it’s not TTL (through-the-lens) metering, so if any filters are attached you’ll need to compensate by adjusting the ISO dial.
But Wait, There’s More!
Every camera has a few annoying features or quirks, and the 35EC is no exception. On the bottom of the camera is a rewind crank that flips back into the body for easy storage. The plasticy twist-knob is designed to fit snug, but unfortunately, it constantly pops out and flops around getting in the way when shooting. I might try wrapping the knob with some electrical tape to help keep it tight inside the cavity next time I shoot with it. The camera is over 50 years old, though, so…
So, What About The GRiiix?
Well, I still want kinda one. I’ve been slowly adding funds to my ‘fun-money budget’, and will most likely still pick it up eventually. But, there’s no rush- I have a very comparable alternative to shoot in the meantime.
Both cameras feel like spontaneous image-makers, both have my preferred focal length, and both are very portable. Obviously, the 35EC can’t compete head-to-head on any ‘technical specs’, BUT, a GRiiix can’t shoot film, and as we all know film is more fun.